Circana recently reported that Drazen at Adobe Stock
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Circana recently reported that "53% of makeup users look for hybrid makeup/skin care products," up 6% compared to 2022.Drazen at Adobe Stock
To highlight the innovation opportunities, Vantage created an array of hybrid makeup formulations. Dubbed "Effortless Color," the collection comprised ingredients such as hydrating and deep-penetrating BP Triluronic Acid A; jojoba oil; the anti-inflammaging StrataPhix Technology Series; Lipovol GTB, a rapeseed-derived emollient; and natural silicone alternatives from the Jeechem NDA line.
Formulations in the collection include the Fresh Canvas Multi-Use Concealer spot treatment, the buildable Hydrating Tinted Face Oil, the liquid All-Over Glow Blusher for the cheeks and eyes, and the plumping Plush Fruity Gloss.
To better understand the cross-category dynamics underway, Global Cosmetic Industry reviewed a range of recent launches to decode future innovation opportunities for brands.
Color Cosmetics’ 2023 Boom
First, however, it’s important to understand the broader market. According to Circana, prestige U.S. makeup sales grew 18% in the first half of the year, faster than any other category, while mass sales grew 9%.
Color cosmetic growth is being driven by a 3% rise in consumer makeup usage, according to Circana’s "2023 Makeup Consumer Report," with Gen Z and millennials over-indexing in comparison to other generational cohorts. More than 1/3 of all makeup users are buying equally among mass and prestige brands. That said, consumers with household incomes greater than $200,000 have increased their usage of makeup, providing opportunities for prestige and luxury brands.
Now, let’s look at some skin-forward color launches.
Serum-like Concealer
Tula Skincare recently made the leap into the concealer category with a 20-shade range of its Radiant Skin Brightening Serum Concealer. The formulation is said to fulfill customers’ desire for an eye treatment with brightening benefits, according to the brand, and comprises Tula’s Rainbow Seabright Elixir, which features rainbow seaweed and niacinamide, as well as the S6Pro Complex, which features a trio of probiotic extracts and three prebiotics derived from chicory, beet and turmeric root. Furthermore, the concealer includes peptides and tea leaf caffeine to address dark circles, skin texture and eye bags.
The long-wear serum-like formula reportedly conceals dark circles and discoloration, while brightening the appearance of skin over time. It also strengthens the skin barrier, per Tula, and increases firmness and protects against moisture loss.
Tula Skincare recently made the leap into the concealer category with a 20-shade range of its Radiant Skin Brightening Serum Concealer.
Tinted Moisturizers for All
Skin-forward color is crossing gender lines. Recently, Apostle launched the 12-shade range of Reclaim Tinted Moisturizers for the face, delivering medium coverage and a matte finish while boosting skin elasticity, firmness and hydration, diminishing the appearance of fine lines, and defending against stressors.
Key ingredients include niacinamide; vitamin E; squalene; hydrating sodium hyaluronate; and the Apostle Blue Mountain Complex, comprising antioxidant Jamaican Blue Mountain, which is rich in calcium, magnesium and potassium, anti-inflammatory Scotch bonnet pepper, which is rich in vitamins A, B and C, and magnesium, as well as antioxidant and rejuvenating sweet orange, which is rich in vitamins C and E.
Elsewhere, Vantage’s previously mentioned “Effortless Color” range included the Tinted Zinc Shield. The lightweight tinted moisturizer features an SPF 30 rating, signaling additional benefits for the format.
A Scar-filling Primer
Topicals recently released the Sealed Active Scar Filling Primer for Acne Prone Skin. Offering a matte finish, the formulation reportedly fills in and smooths the look of indented acne scars and large pores. Longer term use can reduce the appearance of scar depth, per the brand.
Key ingredients include surface-restoring medical-grade silicone, a skin-smoothing biomimetic peptide and cell-turnover-supporting retinol, which also supports a smoothing effect. The formulation is Clean at Sephora compliant.
Foundation Reinvented
Foundation has been a significant area of innovation in recent months. For instance, R.E.M. Beauty’s longwearing Sweetener Foundation features a blend of raspberry leaf extract and hyaluronic acid spheres to deliver instant hydration that reportedly lasts up to four weeks. The formulation also comprises niacinamide to reduce the appearance of pores, correct dullness, and mattify and brighten skin.
Meanwhile, MAC’s Studio Radiance Serum-Powered Foundation, available in 48 shades, was formulated to blur the appearance of pores, smooth the skin’s texture, even out tone and hydrate. To render the skin plumper and more radiant, the formulation features 33 skin care ingredients, including a 10% hyaluronic acid solution, olive and jojoba oils, and antioxidants to protect skin from pollution and blue light.
Glossier has expanded its skin-friendly makeup range with its new Stretch Fluid Foundation formula, which takes cues from its Stretch Concealer. Eighty-nine percent of the new foundation formula comprises a skin care base and offers as much as 12 hours of wear, per the brand. Key ingredients include squalane and glycerin, wild rose berry and plankton extract, and amino acid-coated pigments. The foundation is available in 32 shades balanced across seven families.
Glossier’s Stretch Fluid Foundation is available in 32 shades balanced across seven families, per the brand.
Hydrating & SPF-powered Lip Color
In the first half of 2023, lip makeup was the fastest-growing U.S. beauty product category across the prestige and mass sectors, according to Circana. Growth has been supported by hybridized formulations.
Caliray’s longwear Socal Superbloom Lip + Cheek Hydrating Soft Stain, for instance, features hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and squalene and imparts a sheer tint when applied. The skin-friendly ingredients, meanwhile, hydrate, reduce inflammation and support skin elasticity, per the brand. The stain is available in four shades and can be applied with the packaging’s oversized doe foot applicator.
Caliray’s longwear Socal Superbloom Lip + Cheek Hydrating Soft Stain features hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and squalene and imparts a sheer tint when applied.
Elsewhere, Solesence’s lightweight Lip Oil SPF 40+ comes in both neutral nude or bold tones. The formulation comprises the manufacturer’s Kleair technology, a non-nano, mineral-based, broad-spectrum SPF 40+ sunscreen that reportedly protects the skin from 97% or more of UV radiation. Kleair also reduces pollution-induced free radicals by more than 85%, per Solesence, and, if paired with the company’s antioxidant complex, can boost antioxidant activity by as much as 200%. The silicone-free formulation features Ecocert/COSMOS-approved meadowfoam seed oil, bisabolol, squalene, and bergamot and orange peel oils.
Solesence’s lightweight Lip Oil SPF 40+ comes in both neutral nude or bold tones.
Skin-friendly Brow Liner
Schwan Cosmetics’ Brow Friends Forever (BFF) brow liner is designed to blend and correct for natural-looking brows while offering a high degree of natural ingredients.
The concept features a waterproof and sweat-proof formula featuring natural oils as well as pigments and powder fillers. The formulation comprises 91% natural origin content and ingredients offering vitamins E and C.
The formulas are available in six shades, including a universal brown shade that reportedly accommodates all tones. Custom colors are available upon request, per Schwan.
Schwan Cosmetics’ Brow Friends Forever (BFF) brow liner is designed to blend and correct for natural-looking brows while offering a high degree of natural ingredients.
A recent consumer survey from Denise Herich of The Benchmarking Companyb published by Global Cosmetic Industry revealed the following: “What is most important to consumers when considering the purchase of an eyebrow product or services is color match (75%), ease of application (68%), long-wear (59%), texture (gel, cream, powder, etc.; 55%), ease of removal (44%), does not clump (40%) and waterproof (39%). Brow product attributes at the bottom of her list include specific brand name (19%), natural/organic (17%), and product is ‘clean’ and eco-friendly (17%).”
A home panel test of 39 volunteers conducted by Schwan Cosmetics reportedly found that 97% of users confirmed BFF provided long-lasting brow results.
BFF’s mechanical pencil design supports easy, precise application, per the supplier. The pack features vibrant colors, shiny materials and pearlescent shades inspired by Y2K aesthetics.
“BFF addresses the growing consumer demand for clean beauty products,” said Elza Davida, product manager brow at Schwan Cosmetics. “We noticed the limited availability of mechanical brow liners with high natural origin content (NOC) that meet these criteria. With BFF, we wanted to fill this gap by offering a sustainable, high-performance brow liner with a focus on clean ingredients. This is another step forward in our liner leadership journey as we refuse to compromise on performance.”
