With SPF defense turning up in an ever-growing array of product formats and consumers increasingly aware of the need for year-round SPF defense, brands have an unprecedented opportunity to capture white space and add value to their product innovation.
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With SPF defense turning up in an ever-growing array of product formats and consumers increasingly aware of the need for year-round SPF defense, brands have an unprecedented opportunity to capture white space and add value to their product innovation.
This is particularly critical given that the sun protection market is expected to grow at 4% every year through 2030, reaching a valuation of $21.05 billion by the close of the forecast period, per Custom Market Insightsa.
Evolution of Multifunctional Sun Defense Claims
Image Skincare recently expanded into daily sun care with its Daily Prevention range of anti-aging x sun protection formulations.Image Skincare
“In terms of multi-use, we will see a more proactive approach to sunscreen to not only protect but also repair and prevent future skin damage,” says Michelle Chavez, vice president of innovation, Accupac. “These new formulas will protect against sun damage, repair skin and prevent issues like hyperpigmentation, including PIH and melasma, redness, and signs of aging.”
She concludes, “Claims will continue to evolve beyond UV protection to also include visible light, infrared radiation and digital blue light.”
To that end, Provital has developed Lingostem, a “stem cell active from the superfruit, lingonberry,” according to Kelly Stone, science communication specialist, Provital USA.
She adds, “Using a controlled cell culture of lingonberry stem cells subjected to light stress, we isolate the polyphenols (i.e., hydroxycinnamic acids, flavanols and anthocyanins) … [They] defend and repair themselves against the radiation. With this sustainable, traceable, and environmentally friendly process we obtain an antioxidant activity 11 times higher than that obtained directly from the berry itself. This activity makes Lingostem capable of both protecting and repairing skin against UV, IR-A and blue light.”
This multifunctionality makes the technology a clear candidate for today’s sun care innovation space.
“Lingostem provides a ‘triple action’ approach against light stress,” Stone explains. “The first being direct antioxidant action due to the high polyphenol concentration, which reduces oxidative stress from both UV and IR. Second is boosting the skin’s innate antioxidant response to IR-A radiation by increasing the enzyme SOD (superoxide dismutase) and reducing oxidative stress and collagen degrading MMPs. Finally, Lingostem inhibits key UV-B triggered inflammation factors (TNFa, IL6, COX2) and fully reduces intracellular ROS production caused specifically by blue light to prevent damage and general photoaging.”
Stone concludes, “With clinicals conducted in summer and autumn [months], we obtained both preventative and reparative results with Lingostem at just 1.5%. These include firmness, elasticity, roughness improvement, hydration increase, reduction in wrinkle number (35%) and wrinkle volume (13%), as well as a 44% decrease in UVA oxidative stress.”
To illustrate this multifunctional approach in the market, Image Skincare recently expanded into daily sun care with its Daily Prevention range of anti-aging x sun protection formulations.
The six SKUs in the collection feature the brand's XOSM technology, which “smooths skin’s appearance and helps minimize shine with oil-reducing microspheres,” per the brand. The technology also “amplifies” the impact of skin care favorites like a stabilized vitamin C, ectoin and micro-algae by boosting penetration and ingredient delivery.
The range’s SPF 75 moisturizer is gentle enough to be used after cosmetic procedures like peels and laser treatments, per Image Skincare, while the sheer matte moisturizer features an SPF of 30 and can smooth the skin’s appearance and control shine.
Herbivore Botanicals' Star Seed SPF 30 Vitamin C Brightening Mineral Sunscreen delivers UVA/UVB protection against daily cell damage as well as skin care-inspired materials such as vitamins C and E, plant based prebiotics, Barnet’s VitaGlow-D, and blue light blockers.Herbivore
Finally, the SPF 30 mineral-tinted moisturizer offers light coverage, while an SPF 40 mist for the face and neck is compatible with makeup.
In line with the demand for expert-backed care, the range was developed in cooperation with Raja Sivamani, MD, MS, AP, founder of the Pacific Skin Institute.
Herbivore Botanicals has taken a different approach to multifunctional sun defense. Its lightweight Star Seed SPF 30 Vitamin C Brightening Mineral Sunscreen delivers UVA/UVB protection against daily cell damage as well as skin care-inspired materials such as vitamins C and E, plant based prebiotics, Barnet’s VitaGlow-D, and blue light blockers.
THD vitamin C was included to combat free radicals with its antioxidant activity, pebble plant stem cells were included to boost vitamin D in the skin and enhance water retention, and VitaGlow-D was included to enhance water reserves and maximize light use for all-day vitamin D stimulation, per claims from the supplier. VitaGlow-D also reportedly supports epidermal structuring and increased hydration.
From Sunscreen to Fun-screen
“Sunscreen is poised to see a sensorial shakeup,” says Accupac’s Chavez. “Rather than traditional sunscreens, we will start to see the entrance of 'fun-screens,' UV protectants that drive engagement and that consumers want to use every day.”
Product formats such as serums, jellies, foams and more can convert sun care into self-care.Formatoriginal at Adobe Stock
Other sensory considerations will come into play.
“Fragrance will evolve beyond conventional coconut notes to daily wear and fine fragrance profiles,” explains Chavez.
At the same time, she says, “Ingredients will support healthy, radiant skin including vitamins, minerals, fruits and vegetables. And, finally, the aesthetics will become more pleasurable overall, with fast-absorbing, lightweight formulas that leave no white cast, are easy to apply and are enjoyable for everyday usage.”
A recent concept product from Provital highlights the “fun-screen” concept as applied to body care. Inspired by the 2024 Summer Olympics, the company’s Sun-Activated Body Highlighter featured 98.7% natural origin content (per ISO 16128).
The formulation, an o/w emulsion, comprised skin-friendly monoi oil; the body-sculpting active Striover; Tanositol, a safe sun tan accelerator; and Energen, a cellular ATP booster. The highlighter featured a golden sheen and was designed to make sun care a true beauty ritual.
Enhancing Sun Defense Safety & Performance
Uviva has developed ZincoSense, a multifunctional zinc oxide grade that can be used in formulations such as lipstick, pressed blush powders and CC creams with comparable performance to titanium dioxide.
In response, ingredient firms have put forth new innovations and concepts that address shopper frustrations and worries.
For instance, Provital recently developed a 2024 Summer Olympic-inspired Reef Friendly SPF 50+ Stick. Comprising a formulation with 98.7% natural origin content (per ISO 16128), the stick featured Ethicskin, Provital’s well-aging active designed to support skin homeostasis, and skin-friendly monoi oil. The stick’s biodegradable formula also comprised mineral UV filters. Designed for Gen Z consumers, the formulation was intended to make it easy to apply sun defense on the go while creating a fun ritual.
Elsewhere, Uviva Technologies’ new Eclipse G1 and ZincoSense zinc oxides were designed to offer transparent SPF while acting as TiO2 alternatives.
The new granulated form of Eclipse G1 zinc oxide was created to eliminate dust formation while handling zinc oxide powder in the lab without the need for dispersions. The granules feature no additives for full formulation flexibility, per Uviva. Furthermore, the granules include the same benefits of Eclipse Z1 powder, including high transparency without compromising UVA performance.
Uviva has also developed ZincoSense, a multifunctional zinc oxide grade that can be used in formulations such as lipstick, pressed blush powders and CC creams with comparable performance to TiO2. ZincoSense is COSMOS v4 certified.
Finally, the company’s new Z1-ZST zinc oxide-zinc stearate blend features a naturality index of 1 (per ISO 16128) and COSMOS v4 certification. The blend provides zinc oxide’s sun defense capabilities with zinc stearate’s enhanced hydrophobicity, which rivals that of silane-treated zinc oxides, per the company.
The upgraded water resistance and stability is said to make the technology ideal for daily wear products, makeup and sunscreens. Furthermore, the blend leverages the smooth skin feel of Eclipse Z1 zinc oxide, purportedly without compromising on UVA and SPF protection. The result is formulations with high transparency and no heavy, greasy skin feel.
Meanwhile, Croda Beauty has launched a new technology to enhance the after-sun experience. The company’s Phytessence Osmanthus harnesses the power of its namesake flower to provide antioxidant and soothing properties for the skin, particularly in countering the impacts of heat, as well as the redness and irritation experienced after sunburns.
The technology is therefore ideal for supporting antioxidant, calming, soothing and anti-redness claims in after sun, body care, face and neck skin care, and sun protection products.
Phytessence Osmanthus is produced via Croda’s ultrasound extraction system, Eco-sound, which perforates plant cell membranes at room temperature to release key metabolites into an eco-friendly solvent. The low-CO2 process is particularly ideal for heat-sensitive material extractions.
The technology is 99.4% natural (per ISO 16128), expected to be readily biodegradable (per Croda), halal, COSMOS-certified and vegan.
NEXT: The Consumer Perspective
To learn more about the sun care needs of consumers, this month’s Global Cosmetic Industry magazine has presented two trend reports—“Consumers’ Sun Care Wish List” from The Benchmarking Company, and “Skinification is a Game-changer for Sunscreen Usage,” from Euromonitor International.
FOOTNOTES
awww.custommarketinsights.com/report/sun-protection-market/
