Retinol Reimagined: The Brands and Ingredients Gaining Market Momentum

Retinol has long been the standard treatment for anti-aging. A form of vitamin A, retinol covers a myriad of benefits that expand beyond just anti-aging, including its usage as a treatment for acne, dark spots, melasma, texture and blocked pores. For some consumers, retinol has become their holy grail for youthful, clear-looking skin. For others, the reality of retinol usage is much harsher. 

Retinol alternatives are not new to the market. Well-known brands like Paula's Choice, Clarins, Dr. Jart and even Tatcha have begun offering their own versions of safer, more sensitive solutions to reducing and preventing signs of aging. That momentum hasn't waned, especially as more retinol alternative ingredients have begun hitting the market. But these alternatives are just the tipping point of an ongoing battle between pro-retinol users (who claim retinoids are the only scientifically supported solution on the market currently) and retinol-alternative users (whose science-backed claims are still ongoing). 

Whatever camp you're in, it's clear that retinol isn't perfect. The ingredient's process of cell turnover can be hard on sensitive skin, and users have reported dry, irritated skin, itching or burning sensations, redness, peeling and sun sensitivity. The potential drawbacks of retinol have left users looking for an alternative—one that provides the same level of benefits without the harshness. 

When One Door Closes, Alternatives Open 

Retinol's kryptonite has revealed a new market for retinol alternatives. More recently, natural, plant-based alternatives have been rising in popularity, claiming to outperform retinol in safety and long-term sustainability. 

Popular ingredients include bakuchiol, perhaps the most well-known and well-studied alternative. An extract from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, bakuchiol is a traditional staple in Indian Ayurvedic and Chinese medicines. Rosehip oils have also made their way as a popular additive, as well as niacinamide, glycolic acid and peptides. 

But while these popular alternatives offer more friendly, skin-loving pathways to healthy, youthful skin, the jury is still out on whether these plant-based ingredients and alternatives can meet their promises. 

With the global retinoid market projected to grow from $1.5 billion in 2022 to $2.5 billion by 2032, according to Future Market Insights, and bakuchiol forecasted to nearly double in market value by 2035, retinoids and their competitors are set to transform the market for anti-aging solutions that work long-term^a. Below is a list of some of the most promising retinol alternatives on the market.

Bakuchiol's Streamlined, Plant-Powered Alternatives

One of the more popular retinol alternatives, bakuchiol and bakuchiol derivatives, continue to make waves in the market for those whose skin can't tolerate retinol's potency, offering a sustainable, botanical solution for anti-aging longevity. 

Herbivore Botanicals, a brand leveraging botanical actives to maximize product efficacy, offers three popular retinol alternatives for streamlined aging solutions: 

• Bakuchiol Dual Retinol Alternative Serum
• Moon Fruit 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Serum
• Moon Dew 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Firming Eye Cream

 An extract from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, bakuchiol is a traditional staple in Indian Ayurvedic and Chinese medicines.Studio Zoski at Adobe Stock

According to Herbivore, its Bakuchiol Dual Serum combines two natural retinol alternatives—bakuchiol and bakuchiol ester—to deliver visible firming, soothing and brightening benefits without the irritation or sensitivity associated with traditional retinols. Check out the ingredient breakdown below: 

• Bakuchiol: A clinically-backed, plant-derived compound with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties that refine skin texture and smooth fine lines and wrinkles—without the irritation
• Bakuchiol ester: A next-generation, lipid-soluble retinol alternative with superior stability designed to improve the skin’s ability to absorb bakuchiol
• Chios mastic tree resin: A natural resin from the Greek island of Chios, sourced and harvested from the bark of local Aegean trees that helps promote firmer, smoother skin
• Prince ginseng: A natural root that functions as a gentle and effective alternative to retinol to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

The results of the clinical study claim the following improvements can be made after two weeks of usage: 

• Improvement in fine lines and wrinkles
• Smoother skin
• Improvement in firmness and elasticity 

Herbivore Anti-Aging Moon Duo

The brand's other retinol alternative products, like its Moon Fruit Serum, include similar ingredients:  

• 1% bakuchiol: The most researched plant alternative to retinol that targets visible signs of aging
• Plant peptides: Multi-tasking peptides that visibly firm and tighten the face and neck
• Vegan glycerin: Humectant that draws moisture to the skin and locks it in

Its Moon Dew Eye Cream also contains 1% bakuchiol along with two other skin-loving ingredients: 

• Quinoa plant peptides: Reduce puffiness + diminish eyelid creases for a lifted look
• Squalane: Powerful humectant that locks in all-day hydration

Retinoid and Retinal Meet Bakuchiol in Anti-Aging Serum

The brand Beauty Pie offers the best of both worlds, combining retinoid ingredients with the retinol alternative bakuchiol.Beauty PieThe right retinoid can make all the difference. While retinol is the most common over-the-counter form, it is a far less potent form of retinoid derivatives like retinal and retinoic acid. Retinal is often seen as a good middle ground between retinoic acid and retinol, which offer less potency (and irritation) than retinoic acid but work much faster than retinol. 

The brand Beauty Pie offers the best of both worlds, combining retinoid ingredients with the retinol alternative bakuchiol. Its Youthbomb Extreme Retinal Triple Renewal Serum is formulated to deliver maximum-strength results, combining granactive retinoid, encapsulated L-retinal and bio-bakuchiol for a powerful anti-aging punch. The formula is also paired with calming actives like niacinamide and ceramides to protect and nourish the skin barrier. 

Ingredient Benefits 

• 3% encapsulated L-retinal: To help reduce the appearance of fine lines, blemishes and pigmentation
• 1% granactive retinoid: A bioavailable vitamin A for smoothing, brightening and improving skin texture
• 1% bioavailable bakuchiol: A retinol-like botanical to help reduce the appearance of fine lines
• Lactic acid: An alpha hydroxy acid which helps to gently resurface the skin
• GGA (aka geranylgeraniol): Helps to firm the complexion and extend the youth span of skin cells

Retinal ReSculpt

Another retinal option includes Murad's Retinal ReSculpt, an advanced overnight serum with encapsulated retinal that claims to lift and improve sagging, crepey skin and smooth deep-set wrinkles.    

According to Murad, encapsulated retinal is two times more effective than free retinal while still being gentle on skin.Murad

The serum's ingredients feature:    

• Encapsulated retinal: Two times more effective than free retinal while still being gentle on skin

• Kangaroo paw flower extract: Helps improve the appearance of sagging skin and smooths the look of wrinkles

• Olive, oat and alpha-glucan: Boost moisture and restore skin’s barrier    

Retinol Alternatives at the Ingredient Level 

At the ingredient level, new actives that claim to reach or outpace traditional retinol are here, offering brands more ways to play with anti-aging formulations. Below are three recent ingredients that hit the market. 

Oleosomes Offer Sustainable Solution to Retinol 

Core Biogenesis has created Peauvita and Peauforia, two biomimetic growth factors that can be used as a retinol alternative. 

According to Core Biogenesis, Peauvita and Peauforia, when combined, have been clinically proven to outperform retinol. In just 14 days, the actives surpassed the traditional markers for retinol in wrinkle reduction, skin smoothness and brightness. The power duo is also said to come without the irritation, instability, sustainability and preservation concerns that limit traditional retinol usage.

Peauvita + Peauforia Outperform Retinol

• Wrinkle reduction: Reduced wrinkle depth by 25.5% and length by 27.2% after 30 days, compared to retinol’s 16.3% and 22.2%
• Skin smoothness: Improved in 77% of participants in 30 days (vs. 59% with retinol), with results visible as early as 14 days
• Brightness: Achieved statistically significant skin tone improvement by day 30, while retinol had no effect

According to Core Biogenesis, Peauvita and Peauforia, when combined, have been clinically proven to outperform retinol.Core Biogenesis

Biotech Fusions for Stable Growth Factors 

Growth factors are one of the most powerful anti-aging and skin-repairing actives available, but they are notoriously difficult to stabilize and deliver. By fusing proteins to oleosomes, a natural oil reservoir found within plant seeds, the proteins and peptides can be stabilized, ensuring enhanced delivery to the skin.

For Peauvita (oleosome-EGF) and Peauforia (oleosome-FGF-2), the results of their fusion are documented below: 

• EGF fused to Oleosomes by Core Biogenesis retains 93% of its concentration after 12 months, compared to only 8% when EGF is used alone
• FGF-2 fused to Oleosomes by Core Biogenesis retains 97% of its concentration after 12 months, compared to only 13% when FGF-2 is used alone

Marion Audemard, technical sales lead of Europe at Core Biogenesis, said, "Peauvita contains EGF and Peauforia contains FGF-2, both fused with oleosomes derived from camelina seeds. This fusion enhances the stability of the growth factors over time and improves their skin penetration, maximizing their effectiveness."

She added, "Anti-aging science is undergoing a profound shift as biotechnology becomes one of the most important innovation engines in skin care. Instead of relying solely on traditional extracts or well-known actives, biotech allows us to access high-performance molecules that are more sustainable, more stable and often more effective."

Revolutionary Bakuchiol Blend for Blemishes and Aging 

It is well-known that retinol is the gold standard for anti-aging and anti-blemish properties in skin, but it is also known to cause skin irritation. As such, plant-based alternatives to retinol, such as bakuchiol from Psoralea corylifolia seeds, have emerged as gentler options with comparable effectiveness.

Lipoid Kosmetik AG is another brand offering a new anti-aging ingredient solution. The company's hero ingredient is BakuLipid, an active that combines the retinol-like efficacy of bakuchiol with unsaturated phospholipids to enhance skin penetration for anti-aging skin benefits.

According to Lipoid Kosmetik AG, BakuLipid has been proven to outperform bakuchiol in vivo, effectively targeting blemishes and signs of aging.ak at Adobe Stock

Retinol alternatives, like retinal and other retinoid derivatives, have become popular anti-aging swaps, offering more concentrated and quicker results for those looking to fast-track clear and youthful skin. At the same time, the more powerful retinoid lineup still suffers the same symptoms as traditional retinol.

Though claims are somewhat contested, retinol alternatives offer a promising start to sustainable and skin-loving anti-aging solutions. Consumers want effective anti-aging solutions without the tradeoffs, and brands are innovating products and ingredients to get consumers what they want, quicker than ever. 

Whether through powerful, trusted products or newer, bolder botanical swaps, the message is clear: people are willing to wait for high-quality products that transform and deliver powerful anti-aging benefits for the long term.  

FOOTNOTES

^awww.pharmiweb.com/press-release/2024-02-27/global-retinoids-market-is-poised-to-reach-us-25-billion-by-2032-with-a-projected-cagr-of-54