Prestige hair salesa grew about 14% in 2023, compared to 6% in mass, per Circana. But it’s the category- and claims-level details that tell a richer story and point to opportunities for new innovation.
Log in to view the full article
Prestige hair salesa grew about 14% in 2023, compared to 6% in mass, per Circana. But it’s the category- and claims-level details that tell a richer story and point to opportunities for new innovation.
This includes breakthroughs in dry shampoos, a revolution in hair styling and peptide-centric formulations.
Here, we break down the six most compelling trends driving innovation.
1. The Skinification of Hair Styling
As BASF points out, skinification of hair care is a major trend in North America, impacting the types of formulas that consumers are drawn to, per the company.
The trend is driven by consumers’ desire for recognizable skin care materials and formats intended for the hair and scalp. This has been a boon for formats such as serums, exfoliants, masks and oils.
Carol’s Daughter launched the Goddess Strength Smooth & Shape Balm and the Black Vanilla Moisture & Hold Jelly stylers, both “designed to nourish the hair while creating a long-lasting hold … without breakage or buildup.”Carol's Daughter
Hair styling was the fastest grower in the prestige hair category in 2023, per Circana, with dollar sales up 24%, driven by a more than doubling of hair launch volume compared to 2022.
“Various trends have made their way from skin care into hair care, with inspiration entering the category across ingredients, formats and claims language,” says Michelle Chavez, vice president of innovation, Cobalt Labs. “But for stylers, it gets very interesting.”
She continues, “From ingredients like fortified vitamins, hyaluronic acid and fermented extracts to formats like primers, serums and lotions, the styling aisle is looking more and more like the skin care aisle.”
Chavez adds, “Claims are also experiencing a similar effect, with proactive protection benefits against heat, UV and pollution to advanced repair with bond building and targeted treatment. Additionally, we’ve started to see product positioning around ‘type,’ pulling more inspiration from the skin care category.”
Chavez expects to see more stylers designed for specific hair and curl types for a more personalized user experience.
She concludes, “And the ultimate in skinfication of stylers is treating and caring for our scalp as skin … [The scalp] ages too, leading to a decline in hair health due to decreasing levels of collagen, a lack of proper blood circulation and potential nutrient deficiencies as we age. New innovations in styling products will provide benefits to calm inflammation and soothe the scalp while maintaining the scalp microbiome and strengthening hair at the root.”
Nexxus recently launched an 11-SKU range of stylers that provides enhanced care. For instance, the Prep & Protect Heat Defense Spray detangles strands and offers heat protection and defense against humidity and frizz. Meanwhile, the Curl Define Soft-Hold Curl Cream hydrates the hair while defending it against humidity and frizz. The formulation comprises a silk protein and hyaluronic acid, familiar materials from the skin care space.
Elsewhere, Carol’s Daughter launched the Goddess Strength Smooth & Shape Balm and the Black Vanilla Moisture & Hold Jelly stylers, both “designed to nourish the hair while creating a long-lasting hold … without breakage or buildup.”
The Goddess Strength Smooth & Shape Balm’s ingredients include castor oil, ginger and black cumin seed, materials that support the well-being of curly, coily and heat-styled hair. They also reportedly protect the hairline from damage from styling and brushing.
The Black Vanilla Moisture & Hold Jelly, meanwhile, features shea butter, jojoba oil, vanilla and no drying alcohols.
“I am thrilled to introduce our latest innovations, the Goddess Strength Smooth & Shape Balm and the Black Vanilla Moisture & Hold Jelly,” said Lisa Price, founder of Carol's Daughter, at the time of the launch. “These new styling products not only maintain the strength and moisture of every curl and coil but also empower individuals to express their unique style with confidence and ease.”
2. The Skinification of Everything
While styling is the latest front in the skinification of hair care, every category continues to experience the trend.
For instance, JVN’s recently launched Intense Hydration Mask, designed to “infuse moisture, reduce frizz and nourish split ends,” features skin care-inspired ingredients, including hemisqualane and amino acids, as well as Keratris, the brand’s vegan keratin.
Garnier Fructis’ new Hair Filler product line is inspired by the power of skin fillers and was launched with a marketing push that features social media dermatologist influencer Muneeb Shah, D.O.Garnier
The affordable bonding collection features the Pre-Shampoo Bonding Inner Fiber Repair Treatment designed to repair and smooth damaged hair cuticles, as well as a Strength Repair SKU with Vitamin Cg, featuring citric acid, a repair complex and vitamin Cg (ascorbyl glucoside), Moisture Repair with hyaluronic acid and Color Repair with ceramides.
The collection launches at a time when, as Spate points out, “bond repair” online searches have experienced 210.3% growth, year-over-year. No surprise, top related brands in the search space include Epres, Alterna, Amika, The Inkey List and Olaplex, alongside formats such as shampoo, treatment, conditioner, mousse and oil.
Key related concerns, per Spate, include protection and anti-aging, alongside ingredients such as protein and caviar.
3. New Innovations in Dry Shampoos
In the first quarter of 2024, K18 came onto the scene with the new smart-release OdorBind biotechnology, designed to “recognize, suspend and eliminate odors” for as long as 3 days, per the brand.K18
In the first quarter of 2024, K18 came onto the scene with the new smart-release OdorBind biotechnology, designed to “recognize, suspend and eliminate odors” for as long as 3 days, per the brand.
Featured in the non-aerosol AirWash dry shampoo, OdorBind features biotech-derived Mediterranean microalgae and reportedly works in tandem with translucent microbeads that “sponge up oil without feeling gritty or leaving behind excess buildup or white cast.” The formulation also eschews heavy fragrances.
The result is improved hair manageability and a healthier scalp, per K18. The results can reportedly last for as long as 3 days.
The K18 launch aligns with consumer demands in the sector.
“One specific trend we see trickling down from skin care is extending the results of your professional treatments,” says Chavez. “For hair care, this translates to extending the life of your look. At Cobalt Labs, the innovation department at Accupac, we’ve formulated an innovative Dry Shampoo Mist, which helps extend the life of your style between washes. The non-aerosol, mist format helps cleanse and refresh the scalp while absorbing oil and neutralizing odor without weighing hair down.”
4. Peptides for Healthier Hair & Scalps
Spateb has shown that hair growth claims are increasingly popular in the U.S. market due in part to an aging population.
This is evidenced in high search volume for thick hair queries, as well as searches involving growth-related materials such as minoxidil, ketoconazole and dutasteride, as well as brands like Nutrafol.
Demands for revitalized, healthier hair have been a boon for peptide-based innovation.
In October 2023, Exploding Topicsc reported that “TikTok videos about hair peptides have surpassed 1.1 billion views,” notably due to their ability to repair and nourish hair, as well as boost elasticity and strength by stimulating collagen.
This ensures continuing interest in emerging peptide technologies and claims. This includes bioactive solutions for the scalp.
For instance, BASF’s natural PeptAIde 4.0 peptide, launched in 2020, is derived from organic rice protein containing four peptides discovered via AI. Together, these materials deliver a well-aging solution for skin, scalp and hair, per the company.
Consumers that tested the technology in a shampoo format reportedly experienced a reduced the appearance of redness on scalp, while maintaining healthy scalp oil and pH levels.
These consumers also had a “significant positive perception related to scalp cleansing, hair volume, scalp comfort, and the feel and appearance of a healthy scalp,” per BASF.
Meanwhile, Silab’s Nutripeptides are designed to deliver hydration and a soothing action to the scalp following two months of treatment. The technology was designed to counteract mechanical, thermal, chemical and environmental stressors that can cause redness and irritation, as well as dull hair and lost volume.
Nutripeptides reportedly significantly reduce scalp redness and reduce IL-8 secretion, evidence of an anti-inflammatory effect, per Silab.
The technology also features a repairing action on the hair fiber, thereby restoring shine, density and volume within 1 month of use.
New brands have also put peptides front-and-center. For instance, V & Co., a new hair care brand at Target, features what it calls its Proprietary Peptide Blend, comprising peptides, amino acids, proteins and vitamins.
The brand pairs its core technology with hair-type-specific ingredients; for instance, the wavy shampoo and conditioner features rice protein, while the straight hair variants include aloe juice. Meanwhile, the brand’s curly hair variants include jojoba oil, while its thickening SKUs highlight biotin and coconut oil alongside peptides.
5. Density is Destiny
In March 2024, Dove launched its Scalp + Hair Therapy Density Boost range for the hair and scalp. Per the brand, 89% of women who tested the product “saw thicker, stronger hair after using Dove Fullness Restore Scalp Serum.”Dove
Since that time, a wide number of density-focused launches have hit the market.
Most recently, in March 2024, Dove launched its Scalp + Hair Therapy Density Boost range for the hair and scalp. Central to the launch was the Fullness Restore Scalp Serum, featuring niacinamide (vitamin B3), glycerin, peptide and zinc “to strengthen the scalp’s skin barrier and boost hair density.”
Per the brand, 89% of women who tested the product “saw thicker, stronger hair after using Dove Fullness Restore Scalp Serum.”
One month earlier, Living Proof launched its Scalp Care Density Serum designed to reduce shedding, increase hair density, promote healthier hair growth (within 90 days) and minimize the appearance of gray hair.
The top U.S. prestige hair launch item in dollar volume sales for 2023 was Living Proof’s Perfect Hair Day dry shampoo, per Circana.Living Proof
According to Google data, top associated search terms related to hair density include The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density, the one and only brand/SKU to make the top of the list.
Other associated terms include “serum,” pointing to shoppers’ preferred product format.
6. Multidimensional Scalp Care
The Hair Lab has launched a trio of moisturizing shampoo formulas customized to scalp types—dry, balanced or oil-prone. The formulations can be “supercharged” with the addition of as many as three of the 12 Hair Lab doses the brand offers. Dose options include formulations to address UV exposure, curls, breakage, frizz and more.Hair Lab
Meanwhile, in January 2024, Exploding Topics reported that “scalp detox” online searches surged 51% in the previous 24 months. At the same time, scalp detox videos have accumulated more than 105 views on TikTok, signaling widespread interest.
Per Exploding topics, trending scalp detox products include serums and scrubs, as well as ingredients designed to balance the scalp’s microbiome or provide moisturization or cleansing.
On the supplier front, BASF’s Rambuvital is an upcycled seed extract from organic rambutan that reportedly revitalizes and refreshes scalp and hair and guards the scalp from pollution.
Tested in shampoo and conditioner formats, Rambuvital moisturizes the scalp and prevents odors from sticking to the hair strands, per BASF.
According to the company, “A significant number of consumers that used a shampoo and conditioner formulated with Rambuvital for 28 days perceived hair as less prone to breakage, better smelling for a longer time, and healthier looking and feeling.”
Seppic’s Alariane CV (INCI: aqua/water, butylene glycol, Alaria esculenta extract), meanwhile, simultaneously protects hair follicle cells and scalp lipids from exposomal factors such as heavy metals.
This extract of edible Alaria esculenta algae native to the northern coasts of the Atlantic Ocean, features a binder/detoxifier effect against heavy metals, per Seppic.
Tests have reportedly shown that Alariane CV features the capacity to protect against cadmium, which can be found in cigarette smoke and phosphate fertilizers. In contact with cadmium, the scalp can be weakened and subjected to inflammation that prevents hair follicles from producing healthy hair.
By defending against cadmium exposure, Alariane CV can reduce follicle inflammation and preserve scalp function to maintain healthy hair, per Seppic.
Meanwhile, BASF’s Patch20 A00297 moisturizing complex features a molecular 3D mesh composed of pullulan, alginate and hyaluronic acid, which provides “instant, cumulative and sustained moisture effects for skin, scalp and hair.”
In formulations, Patch20 can reportedly restore damaged hair’s cuticles and reduce the negative effects of chemical pollutants such as PM2.5 and PAHs via its anti-particle-adhesion effect.
Jojoba Desert has also addressed scalp wellness with its JD Phyto-Or 1%, which features jojoba oil and concentrated phytoene. The technology reportedly imparts a radiant shine to users’ hair and balances scalp sebum levels.
On the microbiome front, BASF’s Scalposine comprises a biomimetic amino acid, sarcosine, that reportedly rebalances and resets the scalp microbiome while reducing scalp oiliness.
Tested in a rinse-off scalp mask format, Scalposine reduced scalp oiliness and the accumulation of dirt, oil and product build-up on the scalp while supporting a balanced microbiome when used for at least 28 days. Usage reportedly increased needed shampooing intervals.
Lubrizol’s Fensebiome heptapeptide is designed to provide barrier protection to the skin and scalp while also increasing the beneficial scalp microbiota, which can decrease with age.mimagephotos at Adobe Stock
The result, per Lubrizol, is a “rejuvenated and healthier scalp.”
The ingredient reportedly soothed the sensitive scalps of men and women during two panel tests. In both groups, scalps were perceived as more hydrated and less itchy.
In vitro testing reportedly showed a reduction of kallicrein-5 and PAR-2 activation, which signaled relief of inflammatory and itching skin and scalp conditions.
The heptapeptide can be incorporated into scalp formulations designed to reduce sensitivity, prevent dehydration and rejuvenate the scalp.
On the brand front, The Hair Lab has launched a trio of moisturizing shampoo formulas customized to scalp types—dry, balanced or oil-prone. The formulations can be “supercharged” with the addition of as many as three of the 12 Hair Lab doses the brand offers. Dose options include formulations to address UV exposure, curls, breakage, frizz and more.
The shampoos themselves, which retail at Walmart, include squalene, glycerin and cocamidopropyl betaine for dry scalps; rice water, hemi-squalane and cocamidopropyl betaine for balanced scalps; and apple cider vinegar, glycerin and cocamidopropyl betaine for oily scalps. The brand’s three conditioners are similarly divided among scalp types.
Insights Into Action: New Hair Care Ingredients, Concept Formulas & Packaging for Brands
Capturing the Rosemary Hair Care Trend
For brands seeking to break into rosemary-based hair care, private label beauty manufacturer Lady Burd has developed a revitalizing Rosemary Mint Shampoo.Lady Burd
The popularity of the oil stems from its rosemary-forward branding and ingredient deck. The hero ingredient is frequently associated with "hair growth" queries, making it a darling of the hair growth/revitalization category.
For brands seeking to break into rosemary-based hair care, private label beauty manufacturer Lady Burd has developed a revitalizing Rosemary Mint Shampoo. The sulfate-free formulation, optimal for all hair types, comprises rosemary and mint to gently cleanse all hair types.
Pine-inspired Hair Hydration
Inspired by Scots pine cones, Mibelle’s new PinoPlex counteracts physical, chemical and other hair stresses by imparting osmolytes to the hair to reset the water balance.Mibelle Biochemistry
Mild Conditioning & Color Retention
Croda’s mild Crodamine SC conditioner (INCI: hydroxyethyl diethylenetriamine dioleamide/palmitamide) reportedly boosts hydrophobicity, static control and color retention in both leave-in and rinse-off products. Featuring 90% biobased and natural content, the technology is based on fatty acids typically found in hair.
Turnkey Hair Care Packaging
Lumson's Slim range is characterized by “clean, timeless lines,” per the company.Lumson
Across the three ranges are 19 packaging options in various sizes, offering solutions for products such as serums, masks and other types of formulations.
The Slim range is characterized by “clean, timeless lines,” per the company, spanning nine bottles with capacities ranging from 30 ml to 400 ml. Material options include glass, PET, PE and more.
Lumson's Verona is characterized by a minimalist design with clean lines.Lumson
Lumson's Round range includes muted colors, a soft-touch finish and rounded profiles.Lumson
Round designs are available in glass and PE in capacities ranging from 50 ml to 250 ml. The Round bottles are ideal for products for the hair and/or scalp, per Lumson.
Tube x Applicator Solutions for Hair & Scalp Wellness
Drybar leveraged Cosmogen's Maxi Squeeze’n Detox for its Crown Tonic launch, a pre-shampoo and scalp-balancing cleanser.
The Maxi Squeeze’n for body and hair care can have a filling capacity between 100 ml and 250 ml. Maxi Squeeze’n Detox features a bristled applicator for shampoos and scrubs and is designed to increase blood flow to the scalp while promoting healthier hair follicles. Users can keep the applicator after the tube is emptied.
Drybar leveraged the Maxi Squeeze’n Detox for its Crown Tonic launch, a pre-shampoo and scalp-balancing cleanser. The applicator’s pad with soft spikes was reportedly designed to gently treat the scalp.
FOOTNOTES
awww.circana.com/intelligence/category/blog/?_industry=beauty
